The dozen or so albums Elvis Costello has released in the new millennium have run the gamut from work for symphony orchestras and jazz pianos to hard-edged country, alternative folk and a pop-funk collaboration with The Roots.
But the best of them may well be 2008’s Momofuku, the most conventional of the bunch.
Eschewing the high-concept themes of Costello’s other recent work, Momofuku was bashed out over a few weeks and released with little fanfare. And it’s exactly what the doctor ordered.
Second track ‘American Gangster Time’ is one of my favorites. It’s propulsive and grungy, and features that high-pitched organ sound Elvis put to such great effect on Get Happy!!. I love that sound.
If I remember correctly, friend of the blog Dana is not a big fan of the organ. Perhaps he will elaborate on that below.
Somewhere downtown a pretty girl kneels
Offers her soft lips and a handful of pills
Peels off her dress and then the rest of her skills
It buys what she wants and the rest she just steals
He speaks between deep swallows of rum
While her head is beating like a big bass drum
And she wishes he were mute and not just dumb
When the trick asked her quick, “Did you come?”
It’s a drag
Saluting that starry rag
I’d rather go blind
For speaking my mind
Or use it just like a gag
So raise it in anger
Just let it hang
American Gangster Time
He sits back and starts to invent
All about some Saigon correspondent
“‘Til the carbine fell silent and spent
I never knew it could be so eloquent”
Next week there’ll be some fashionable new sin
For each harlot and each Puritan
Pull off their wings stick them on a pin
And just watch the money roll in
It’s a drag
Saluting that starry rag
I’d rather go blind
For speaking my mind
Or use it just like a gag
So raise it in anger
Just let it hang
American Gangster Time
What you got hidden up your sleeve?
The tracks of the train that were bidding you to leave
When they say that you should flatter to deceive
Don’t count on any reprieve
The hands of the helpless are raised
Your dead little secrets are praised
The people stand dumbstruck and dazed
By the inches that you have erased
It’s a drag
Saluting that starry rag
I’d rather go blind
For speaking my mind
Or use it just like a gag
So raise it in anger
Just let it hang
American gangster time
Committing the perfect crime
In American Gangster Time
Here we go
Bye bye
American Gangster Time
Meet Me In Montauk 
What can I say? The ear likes what the ear likes. I think that organ sounds too much like a carnival and I don’t like carnival sounds. However, it bothers me less here, perhaps because it is not present in the whole song. A little organ can go a long way.
Meanwhile, I agree with you that this is one of Elvis’ better albums of late.